Slow Gambero

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Come ogni anno sono appena uscite le guide dei migliori vini italiani. Fra tutte quella del Gambero Rosso mi sembra di gran lunga la più diffusa e commentata, almeno per quanto riguarda l’assegnazione dei tre bicchieri, che in definitiva sono l’unica cosa che importa alla gente. Tale guida nasce in collaborazione con Slow Food, che ne è anche l’editore.

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The vego jackaroo

by Martin Field
So whaddaya reckon vego wine writers do on their weekends off? In my case they round up cattle. Yeah. Sounds incongruous, whatever you want to label it – but it happens.

We’ve got friends who run a cattle property where they make a little wine on the side. They occasionally invite us up to the farm (1500 acres – a herd of three or four hundred Black Angus beasts at any one time) for the weekend. But it ain’t a lolling round the open fireplace, drinking Scotch, country house in tweeds weekend. It’s a full-on, get yer hands dirty, sweaty old Akubras, hideously dirty jeans, up to the tops of yer elastic-sided Blundstones in sheeit and don’t turn yer back on the shaggin’ bulls weekend.

Socialising cows
The boss cocky had a plan. Nine visiting, well-hung, stud bulls had been bed and breakfasting and socialising with around three hundred cows and calves, in three non-contiguous paddocks. Now it was time to move the three different mobs of cattle to the cattle yards to inoculate the calves against seven different kinds of deadly bovine ague.

This exercise involved a quiet enough ramble along a few kilometres of back roads. The country air perfumed with the smell of gumtrees and cow crap that combined into a not unlikeable fragrance. The walk is accompanied by the lowing (and highing) of the cows and the ear-splitting shrieks of hundreds of amused, sulphur-crested cockatoos who have turned out to watch the passing parade. And as you amble along, shouting such endearments as ‘Move yer stupid *%*#& arse!’ you hope that the local boy racers don’t come hoon-mobiling over the next rise in Top Gear fashion, en route to hamburger heaven.

You persuade each mob to enter the yards and then try to separate the calves from their mothers and the rather promiscuous, polygamous bulls from their lovers – none of them, it seems, wanting to say farewell. There’s much yelling and effing and blinding and not a little dangerous excitement before the calves are channelled, wild-eyed and reluctant, into the race.

Self-inoculation
This is where our Farmer Giles administers the aforesaid, multi-functional inoculation from a backpack, via a mean-looking hypodermic into the hide above each calf’s neck. The calves have other priorities. They’re practising for the next calf Olympics. Apparently their events will include reverse parking, leap-frogging, piggy-backing, playing dead, and self-throttling through the steel bars on a cattle race. Consequently Farmer ‘this won’t hurt a bit!’ Giles not infrequently shoots the vaccine (ironic that) into his thumb. As a result it can be safely said that he won’t ever suffer from certain unspeakable cattle diseases in his allotted life span.

Raging Bulls
Eventually, the on-loan, not quite shagged out bulls have to be moved into separate pens to be picked up and returned to their home the next day. This is when the fun begins. Picture it, there are three yappin’ dogs whose aspirations in the cattle herding arena far outweigh their capabilities. Us two city folk are driving an old Subaru 4×4 ute; gentleman Farmer Giles is in a big Toyota ute leaving his partner quite unprotected riding a none too stable, all-terrain vehicle. All of us are in a large paddock where we’ve cornered nine huge, lascivious, red-eyed, rampaging, rootin’, tootin’, fightin’, we’d rather be shaggin’, dustin’ and pawin’ the ground, angry bulls.

All we had to do was push them through rather narrow gates then separate them into individual pens.

They had other ideas…

Much later, congratulating ourselves on our survival as wranglers, we eat a huge dinner accompanied by a few bottles of fine red and then loll around in front of the open fire sipping a few shots of Laphroaig as a night cap.

Then Farmer Giles suddenly remembers that there’s another mob that has to be done early the next morning.

Book Review

By Martin Field
James Halliday’s Wine Atlas of Australia
Halliday is unarguably Australia’s most talented, most prolific and best researched wine author. This volume handsomely reflects those abilities and then some. It is has something for anyone with an interest in Australian wine: the grapes, the wines, the regions, the wineries, the history. All complemented with full colour maps and photographs. Highly recommended. Illustrated, large format hardback, 312 pages. Published 2006 by Hardie Grant Books Victoria, Australia. $79.95.

Spit bucket drinking

by Martin Field
3 Ravens Black – about $3.40 the 330ml bottle – \_/\_/\_/
Espresso black in colour. Inviting nose of bitter chocolate and dark coffee beans. This stout is a smooth (from oatmeal component I’m told) textured, satisfying brew that lasts long on the palate with more of the chocolate and coffee following through from the bouquet and some sweet maltiness. Bottle-conditioned (means there’s yeast in the bottle) unfiltered, unpasteurised, 5.5% alcohol.

Bress Brut Cider – about $18 the 750 ml bottle – \_/\_/\_/
Harcourt, Victoria. Pale gold, persistent bead. Lovely, very dry cider (10% alcohol) oozing essence of apples and showing an appetite-whetting, lip-smacking, green apple, finish.

Effen Vodka – up to $50 the 700ml bottle – \_/\_/\_/
Holland. Distilled from bulgur wheat. Clean, fragrant spirity nose. The vodka is mellow on the palate and has such a silky mouthfeel it’s almost a pity to use it as a cocktail base – it deserves to be sipped ice-cold on its own.

Richmond Grove Watervale Riesling 2005 – up to $16 – \_/\_/\_/\_/$
Clare Valley, South Australia. Near water pale with a light green edge. The nose is all lemons, limes and citrus flowers. The palate shows elements of lemon sherbet, lime juiciness and medium acidity – the finish is off-dry.

Peter Lehmann Barossa Semillon 2005 – RRP $12.95 seen for $7.74 – \_/\_/\_/$
South Australia. Light lemony hues. Attractive and typical semillon nose of ripe lemons and hay. Palate is crisp and tangy with lovely youthful acidity. Great aperitif or entrée wine. Cellar to 2009.

Tallarook Roussanne 2005 – around $25 – \_/\_/\_/
Tallarook, Victoria. Very pale gold. Complex nose of lychee, tea, citrus and hints of smoky oak. Rich and full in the mouth with a mix of tropical fruit ripeness nicely supported by an edge of citric acidity.

Swords Pinot Noir 2005 – $14.99 (incl. $3 deposit) 1 litre swing-top returnable bottle – \_/\_/
Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Bright rosy colour. Fresh berry nose. Soft light and fruity palate, ideal for a spring or summer lunch.

Cardinham Sangiovese 2005 – $18-ish – \_/\_/\_/
Clare Valley South Australia. Mid-ruby, hint of purple. Savoury, perfumed, smoky nose. I liked the mouth-filling palate, a cool collation of cherries, plums and strawberries, drying grape and oak tannins and good length of flavour. Admirably suited to a rich pasta dish.

Fox Creek JSM Shiraz Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 – up to $22 – \_/\_/\_/
McLaren Vale, South Australia. Deep crimson. Ripe, spicy blackberry nose. Mellow velvety style of soft tannins and well-ripened berry conserve, supported by that faint chocolate flavour I often notice in McLaren Vale reds. Will drink well for the next four or so years.

Seppelt Mount Ida Shiraz 2004 – up to $50 – \_/\_/\_/\_/
Heathcote, Victoria. Dense, purple-edged appearance. Nose of berries, faint pepper and sweet oak vanillin. The palate is full-on with extravagant ripe blackberry fruit, assertive tannic astringency and an intense, concentrated finish.

Spitbucket rating systemFive gold spitbuckets: \_/\_/\_/\_/\_/ – brilliant
Four: \_/\_/\_/\_/ – classy
Three: \_/\_/\_/ – good drinking
Two: \_/\_/ everyday drinking
One: \_/ – spit it!
An added $ denotes excellent value for money.

Prices in Australian dollars

Cheatin’ in the kitchen

by Martin Field

Bloody eggs!
E-vine’s ever-industrious R&D chef – we’ll call her Beery Mag – has come up with a sensational Sunday breakfast, hangover heart-starter. She admits that like all recipes this is a variation on a well-known theme. She calls it Piquant Pick-me-up Poached Eggs.

Ingredients: a cup or so of tomato juice, a dash of Worcestershire sauce, a dash of Tabasco sauce, coarsely ground black pepper, free range eggs, a shot or two of vodka – optional.

Mix all ingredients except eggs and vodka in a shallow non-stick pan and bring to a trembling simmer. Break an egg into a small saucer then slide it from the saucer into the simmering brew. Poach for three and a half to four minutes, until the white is firmish, occasionally spooning the hot liquid over the yolk.

Meanwhile, depending on the state of the head, throw a shot or two of ice cold vodka down the throat while spreading thick slices of wholemeal toast with butter. When the egg is poached to your liking remove it from the pan with an egg slicer and place it on the toast, along with a spoonful or two of the poaching liquid as sauce – season with salt and pepper.

Keep leftover cooked juice in the fridge to use in tomato-based sauce recipes.

Diario di un vignaiolo: conclusioni

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Non credo che la vendemmia 2006 sarà ricordata piacevolmente in Liguria.
Agosto ha regalato grandine, vento e dieci giorni di pioggia continua (dal 10 al 20 più o meno), in un periodo critico per la maturazione delle uve tipiche della zona. In particolare penso che la situazione sia stata tragica per quei vitigni e quelle zone in cui al momento delle intemperie gli acini cominciavano ad essere teneri e fragili. I vitigni più tardivi o quelle zone in cui la maturazione era più indietro dovrebbero aver sofferto meno.

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