Il carattere è una cosa importante. Penso che nei vini il carattere sia una cosa addirittura fondamentale. Il carattere di un vino è l’interpretazione “valorizzante” di un vitigno e di un territorio, è cioè qualche cosa in grado di esaltare una base comune (vitigno e territorio appunto) attraverso un apporto unico e personale.
Ci sono vini perfetti esteticamente ma privi di carattere. Per fare un esempio concreto penso che un bel copione abbia un carattere migliore se interpretato da Rober De Niro anziché da Gabriel Garko
La vigna d’inverno
Passata la vendemmia, della vigna non parla più nessuno. Piano piano le foglie cadono e rimangono rami spogli e secchi. Piove, nevica, fa freddo. Qualche bella tiepida giornata però c’è sempre, e allora prima o dopo bisogna potare.
2008…….
Non mi piace unirmi al coro delle prefiche e dire che tutto va allo sfascio.
E’ vero; viviamo in un paese dove molta gente pensa sia divertente sparare ai bambini la notte di capodanno, o nascondere con i fuochi d’artificio i falò della spazzatura sotto casa; dove il petrolio e conseguentemente la benzina costano come il vino, ma si vendono automobili (preferibilmente molto potenti) come non mai; dove non passa giorno senza che qualche grossa fabbrica chiuda o sposti la produzione altrove e si apra al suo posto un bel centro commerciale; dove la più alta aspirazione (incoraggiata da governanti e sindacati) è quella di andare in pensione il più presto possibile; dove migliaia di piccoli imprenditori e commercianti tengono aperta l’attività non già per convenienza economica, ma solo per orgoglio o per non farsi pignorare la casa dalle banche.
Bene, think positive! Non è vero che tutto va a ramengo; semplicemente tutto evolve, anche se capire la direzione e le leggi che regolano tale evoluzione è un’impresa disperata.
Noshtalgia
by Martin Field
Barbecued lamb flaps in Alice Springs
Lamb flaps, as I remember, were barbecuing over a smoky wood fire, near the old water hole at the Alice Springs Telegraph Station. Our hosts were members of the Pitjantjatjara and Tangentyere people and one of the guests was Peter Brook, visiting the Alice following his involvement in the 1980 Adelaide Festival.
As dusk turned to dark, a local guitarist played Slim Dusty songs and we sat around drinking beer and wine, chewing the fat and gnawing the lamb in the sandy, waterless, riverbed.
Afterwards there was a party in town in honour of Peter. He asked if he could get a lift there with us.
‘Sure,’ I said. ‘If you don’t mind riding in back of the Moke with Kali the Blue Heeler.’ Here I should mention that there were no seats in the rear of our yellow Mini Moke, rather an uncomfortable metal shelf, and no seat belts.
He didn’t mind, and we were treated to the sight of this eminent director, no doubt used to more luxurious transport, crawling onto his uncomfortable ‘seat’ while the dog licked his face in welcome.
He survived the trip and we partied on.
Queensland Wine Awards
by Martin Field
Judging for the 2007 Queensland Wine awards took place at the Brisbane Sofitel on December 3 – with your kindly editor as one of the judges.
Three judging panels tasted some 340 wines from 55 Queensland wineries. A tiny number of contenders compared with, for instance, the Royal Melbourne Wine Show’s 4,000 plus entries. Not bad however, for a state that most southerners still see as an emerging wine region.
Obviously, I didn’t get to taste all the wines but of those I tried, I thought the verdelhos were very good, the merlots were also impressive.
In the taste off for the trophy awards, I rated the 2006 Hidden Creek Rooklyn Shiraz as outstanding.
Trophy winners
Best Fortified Wine: 1986 Ballandean Estate Wines Red Liqueur Muscat; Best Dessert Wine: 2006 Heritage Wines of Stanthorpe Botrytis Chardonnay; Best Red Wine: 2006 Hidden Creek Rooklyn Shiraz; Best White Wine: 2006 Kooroomba Vineyards Chardonnay; Best Sparkling Wine: 2006 Sirromet Wines Sparkling Petit Verdot.
Cringe factor?
Funnily enough, you don’t see many Queensland wines on Queensland restaurant wine lists. Reminds me of the Mornington Peninsula region 20 and more years ago. If you went into a Peninsula wine store or bottle shop and asked for a local wine the typical reply was, ‘Don’t get much call for that sort of stuff around here Sir.’
Prawns and Technicolour yawns
Travelling to and from Brisbane for the awards judging, I couldn’t help noticing that the coastal strip is a bit of a horror show for fine food lovers. Numerous fast food outlets whiz past the bus windows. Their garish shopfronts interspersed with a number of restaurants advertising that ghastly juxtaposition: ‘Surf and Turf’, or its inventive alternative, ‘Reef and Beef’.
‘It’s for the tourists.’ Locals explain lamely. Strange really. Tourists in France, for example, seem able to make do with superior food that doesn’t depend on meat and seafood piled on the one plate.
Spitbucket Drinking
by Martin Field
Bridgewater Mill Sauvignon Blanc2007 – up to $23 – \_/\_/
Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Pungent bouquet of herbs and a tinge of asparagus. Light and dry on the palate with a touch of tropical fruit and clean acidity to finish. Try with entrées.
Green Point Sauvignon Blanc 2007 – $22 – \_/\_/
Victoria. Aromatic with lychees and a subtle influence of French oak. Fuller style of sauvignon with a rounded texture, passionfruit and some grassiness.
AU Verdelho 2006 – $16.50 – \_/\_/
Granite Belt, Queensland. Fruity nose reminiscent of ripe pears and pineapples. Generous, soft palate showing dried pears and finishing with mild acidity.
Blind Man’s Bluff Liaisons Chardonnay 2007 – $28 – \_/\_/\_/
Kenilworth, Queensland. This unwooded chardonnay displays an attractive nose of peaches, apricots and apples. Stone fruits continue on the palate and the wine finishes with tangy citrus acidity.
PHI Pinot Noir 2006 – around $50 – \_/\_/\_/\_/
Yarra Valley, Victoria. Perfumed nose of strawberry conserve and dusty oak. Medium weighted palate, dry and velvety tannins and lashings of lovely berries. One of the better pinots I have tasted this year.
Conte Estate Numb Hand Pruner Grenache 2006 – $18 – \_/\_/
McLaren Vale, South Australia. Nose of raspberries, stewed plums and alcohol (14.5%). Soft sweet berries on the palate lead to a warm juicy aftertaste. Main course wine.
Picarus Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 – $20-ish – \_/\_/\_/
Wrattonbully, South Australia. The bouquet of this wine shows blueberries, red currants and a hint of pencil shavings. The palate is youthful, showing good fruit intensity; the tannins and acidity are quite forward and probably need a couple of months to soften off a tad. Will cellar well.
Tahbilk Eric Stevens Purbrick Shiraz 2002 – $60-ish – \_/\_/\_/\_/\_/
Nagambie Lakes, Victoria. A worthy name for what was originally the Tahbilk Special Bin label. The wine opens with an inviting nose of spice, chocolate, blackberries, mint and aniseed. The palate is a complex mix of concentrated shiraz and integrated French oak, ably supported by lean, sinewy, drying tannins. If you’re looking for a special bottle for your Christmas dinner, or a wine gift, or one to cellar gracefully for another 10 to 15 years, this is the wine.
Spitbucket rating system
Five gold spitbuckets \_/\_/\_/\_/\_/ – outstanding
\_/\_/\_/\_/ – classy
\_/\_/\_/ – first-rate
\_/\_/ – good stuff
\_/ – spit it!
An added $ or two denotes excellent value for money.
E’ Natale…..
E’ natale, quindi siamo tutti più buoni.
Nel caso che sabato 15 Dicembre alle ore 17 qualcuno si trovi a Genova dalle parti di Palazzo Ducale, potrà partecipare ad un’asta benefica e acquistare alcune bottiglie di vino dei migliori produttori liguri, etichettate per l’occasione con vignette di famosi disegnatori. Il ricavato sarà devoluto per la realizzazione di un acquedotto in Burundi.
Etichette e autocertificazione del vino
Segnalo un interessantissimo articolo del mio amico Giampiero Nadali, alias Aristide, a proposito della (retro)etichettatura del vino. Giampiero conosce bene la mia posizione sul tema, ne abbiamo discusso a lungo e siamo sulla stessa lunghezza d’onda, in favore di una trasparenza totale degli ingredienti del vino. Giampiero riporta sul suo blog un’immagine della retroetichetta del Serragghia Bianco Zibibbo Sicilia IGT 2006 di Giotto Bini (distribuzione Velier), vino altrimenti spettacolare secondo tutte le testimonianze.
Zinfandel, Primitivo, Ruster Ausbruch
Petite dégustation de Zinfandel et Primitivo dimanche dernier, sous l’enseigne Slow Food, au chai des Dupéré Barrera à Toulon. Larry Martin de Slow Food Russian River, nous a présenté les vins de Dashe, Bella et Seghesio. De mon côté j’ai trouvé des Primitivo (c’est le même cépage) des Pouilles de chez Feudi di San Marzano. Les convives ont tous collaboré leur plats à cette auberge californienne…
Bei Tempi
Non (mi) capita molto spesso di bere vini acclamati o addirittura premiati come “Vino dell’anno” addirittura da Wine Spectator. A volte capita e non lo sai, ovvero non sai che stai bevendo un vino che in capo a un paio di anni assurgerà al vertice dell’enologia mondiale, anche se timidamente capisci che si tratta di “roba buona”.