Electronic menu

by Martin Field

The chief boffin in our R&D department is about to patent a design for an electronic menu.

Basically, the E-menu (as she likes to call it) is designed to increase efficiency of ordering, to provide detailed information to diners, to minimise the unwanted attention of pushy waiters and sommeliers and thereby to reduce the number of floor staff. There are obvious cost savings related to this latter aim.

The wi-fi menu can be permanently installed in dining tables, one at each setting or, as a less expensive alternative, can take the form of a menu folder to be handed out to individual guests.

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Maledetta Peonina

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(Clicca per ingrandire)
Credo che la figura qui sopra spieghi qualche cosa riguardo al “peccato” originale dell’enologia italiana, nonché riguardo alle ultime tristi vicende legate allo scandalo noto come “Brunellopoli”.
Sono infatti rappresentati i “profili antocianici” di vari vini ottenuti da vitigni coltivati in Italia, ovvero il contenuto percentuale dei 5 antociani responsabili del colore del vino rosso, e delle loro forme esterificate (altri). Fra i suddetti antociani la Malvina dà colorazioni intense tendenti al blu ed è ritenuta da sempre la molecola più stabile e resistente all’ossidazione. Al contrario la Peonina tende maggiormente al rosso, e si ossida più facilmente verso tonalità granata e mattone. Vi dice qualche cosa?

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Terroir Vino

Every year TigullioVino.it, Italy’s foremost wine portal, organizes a wine Meeting, a table-top event bringing together over one hundred winemakers hand picked from Italy and Europe. This year’s edition, with some influence from yours truly, is called Terroir Vino, and was held at the magnificent Palazzo Ducale in Genova.

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The Palazzo Ducale, photo by Luca Risso

Terroir Vino is the brainchild of my friend, web entrepreneur Fil Ronco. Participants are invited after selection in a blind tasting by TigullioVino teams, and so you get a wide spectrum of styles and sizes of winery, from the “all natural” vigneron with less than 4 hectares, to large quality producers like Lungarotti. Half the day is reserved for wine professionals (press, restaurant owners, importers), and starting mid-afternoon the event is open to the public for a nominal fee.

The setting under the gold leaf carved ceilings of the doge’s palace, the perfect organization and the friendly atmosphere made this Terroir Vino day a big success. It was good to see lots of blogging and newsgroup friends, including Joan Gómez Pallarès, Terry Hughes, Luca Risso, Giampiero Nadali, Schigi, Filippo Cintolesi, Franco Solari, Fiorenzo Sartore, Mirco Mariotti, Gianpaolo Paglia, even Slow Food friends Enrico Sala and Maurizio Fava. All in all 1500 people attended.

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La reciprocità dei polifenoli

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La lettura sul sempre interessante Winesurf di questo e di questo articolo sull’uso dei tannini in enologia, mi ha ispirato una considerazione paradossale.
L’uso di questi preparati di origine talvolta totalmente estranea all’uva, è oramai un fatto diffuso e accettato senza tanti problemi. I motivi sono ampiamente spiegati dai due articoli citati. Tra le altre cose i tannini sono apprezzati come stabilizzatori del colore dei vini rossi, in quanto si legano con gli antociani formando composti colorati più scuri e più resistenti all’ossidazione. Orbene, vediamo se invece io riesco a essere chiaro nello spiegare questo paradosso.
Tannini e antociani sono entrambi polifenoli, e hanno come costituente della loro molecola lo ione flavilio (che bel nome) rappresentato in figura. Sono due molecole “moralmente” equivalenti, se mi si passa il temine. Si legano e si stabilizzano a vicenda.
Ma allora perché è accettato l’uso di tannini esogeni alla propria uva per stabilizzare il colore del vino, e invece respinto l’uso di antociani esogeni per stabilizzare i tannini? Perché posso usare tannini per dare al barolo un colore più stabile, e non posso usare, chessò, la malvina estratta da una melanzana per smussarne e stabilizzare i tannini, ottenendo anche un bel blu profondo?
Mistero!

Luk

Temporarily teetotal

by Martin Field

Long-time readers will be shocked to hear that your humble correspondent has been off the grog for a few weeks. Doctor’s orders, following a nasty but necessary ‘routine’ operation visited often enough upon ageing geezers.

Seems that up to a month’s healing is required, and alcohol, which can dilate blood vessels, may hinder this.

Not that I felt much like booze, or food for that matter for a couple of weeks. No doubt due to trauma and the ongoing aftermath of a generous intrathecal dose of dope that left me temporarily legless.

Where was I?

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Star drinking

by Martin Field

Cascade First Harvest Pure Green Hop Brew– up to $20 the six-pack of 330ml bottles – * * *
Made with from fresh hop flowers. Mid to dark amber. Sweet aromas of toffee like malt and savoury hops. Full-flavoured and malty on the palate with a delicious lasting hop bitterness at the finish. This limited release is worth chasing up.

Temple Bruer Verdelho 2007 – up to $18.50 – * *
Langhorne Creek, South Australia. Certified organic, no preservatives added. Spicy apricot nose. Full-bodied white with overtones of stone fruits on the palate, mild acidity and a quite dry, food suited finish.

Blind Mans Bluff Sophist Red – Cellar door price $18 – * *
Kenilworth, Queensland. I’d call this a sort of shiraz rosé. It’s light in colour – a bit darker than your typical rosé and light in alcohol at 10 per cent. The nose is juicy and plummy and the palate fresh and off-dry with enough grape tannins to offset the sweetness. Serve chilled as you would a rosé.

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Intrusive sommeliers

by Martin Field

In the latest issue of Slate online, Christopher Hitchens makes some valid points as he slags intrusive sommeliers, see Wine drinkers of the world, unite.

I’ve met a few sommeliers who know a lot more about wine than I ever will and who can advise and talk knowledgeably about it. For diners who don’t know much about wine these experts can be invaluable.

But for those who know what they like, some sommeliers (vinowaitus interruptus) come across as arrogant buttinskis.

I particularly detest those dudes and dudines whose only job it seems, is to flog pricier bottles and who overpour robotically to sell more wine – often with no regard to guests’ thirst, tastes, wallets, or sobriety.

And, who has ever met a sommelier who recommends inexpensive wines from their list?

PS – As for intrusiveness – I’ve been to restaurants lately where your conversation is still interrupted by wait staff wielding giant pepper grinders and pots of grated parmesan. I thought those went out with avocado vinaigrette.

El Celler de Can Roca

El Celler de Can Roca (Gérone, Catalogne, Espagne) était depuis longtemps sur ma liste de restaurants à visiter. En février à Barcelona j’avais rencontré le confrère bloggeur Joan Gómez Pallarès, qui m’avait donné une opinion très positive des trois frères Roca, en ajoutant qu’ils avaient une nouvelle salle avec une surface doublée mais avec le même nombre de tables qu’avant. J’avais aussi lu les articles de François Bruschet sur Can Roca.
El Celler de Can Roca
El Celler de Can Roca est sans doute une de mes expériences culinaires plus mémorables, je les compare avec Troisgros. Et à 279€ pour 2 personnes avec 19 plats et 9 vins au verre, on peut presque dire que c’était une aubaine (le menu dégustation est à 100€).

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Music to drink wine by

Reports in the news today suggest that the enjoyment of certain wine varietals can be enhanced while listening to different styles of music. See, for example, Why wine tastes better with music, and, Music can enhance wine taste.

Examples include matches such as cabernet sauvignon with Jimi Hendrix; chardonnay with Blondie; merlot with Otis Redding and music by classical composers such as Orff and Tchaikovsky.

There is of course an enormous cultural bias inherent in this kind of research.

If you are a wine drinker whose tastes run to the blues, rock ‘n roll and bluegrass a glass of good red is hardly going to taste better while listening to Carmina Burana.

Similarly,if you have been acculturated to prefer western classical music or opera, a glass of chablis might taste a tad sharpish while Jimi’s Voodoo Chile is blasting way at volume 11 on the stereo.

One can only imagine what wines you would match with the music of Celine Dion, Ravi Shankar, Karlheinz Stockhausen or ‘J-Lo’.