by Martin Field

Picks of the bunch
Cascade First Harvest 2006 – $17-ish the four-pack
Tasmanian ale made using Ember, Galaxy and Nova hops. Mid-amber. Aromatic with tobacco leaf and floral notes. Mellow palate shows malty chocolate and a faintly bitter finish. Eminently drinkable.

Red Hill Brewery Hop Harvest Ale – $5.50 the 330ml bottle
Ruddy unmilked tea hues. Fresh nose of light maltiness and an edge of citrus. Refreshing palate shows fruitiness and a fine bitter tang. Use as an aperitif or would suit light main course tucker. Served on tap at the brewery.

Hanging Rock Macedon NV Brut Cuvée XI – up to $45
The back label tells us that the bubbly, disgorged in December 2005, is a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay. It comprises 50% of wine from the 2001 vintage, blended with reserves dating back to 1987. Pale golden in colour it has a fine persistent bead. The bouquet shows nuttiness, distinct bread-from-the-oven aromas and white flowers. The palate is robust and complex, showing more of the aged yeast lees, subdued fruit and a powerful dryish finish.

Port Phillip Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2005 – $22
Near water pale, hint of green. Attractive nose of kiwi and passionfruit. Those fruits continue on the palate with a pleasing edge, reminiscent of lemon sherbet. The medium acid tang at the finish is just right. Light and harmonious style.

Haselgrove Adelaide Hills Reserve Viognier 2005 – up to $25
Nose reminds me of lime blossom and dried apples. The palate is well-balanced with tangy stone fruit over light French toasty oak, leading to softish acidity at the finish.

Word of Mouth Pinot Noir 2004 – under $20
Orange, New South Wales. Leafy, cherry, rose petal nose. Maraschino cherry and strawberry flavours are well-accented in the mouth, supported by good tannic astringency. The palate starts off with fruit and alcohol (14.5%) sweetness and finishes with dinner–suiting firmness.

Terra Felix Mourvèdre 2005 – $12-ish
Central Victoria. Youthful, juicy, grapey bouquet. Bags of sweet berries on a medium-weighted palate with a dryish finish. Reminded me not a little of the occasional Beaujolais I’ve tasted.

d’Arenberg The Laughing Magpie Shiraz Viognier 2004 – up to $30
Fine-looking purple to black in colour. Blackberries and liquorice all-sorts on the nose. I like the texture of this one, lip-smacking drying tannins support a generous, mouth-filling, ripe fruited, dinner complementing red.

Laanecoorie 2003 – up to $23
Central Victoria. Equal amounts of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot. I could drink a bucket of this. It has a lovely purple colour, the fragrance of black currants and mintiness leaps out of the glass at you. The palate shows extravagant berry fruit, chewy tannins and crafted usage of French oak. Value for money at the price. Highly recommended.

Note: Prices in Australian dollars.