by Martin Field
Penfolds Koonunga Hill Autumn Riesling 2008 – $18 and around $35 on premise ****
From the Barossa Valley comes this pale-hued wine showing greenish edges. The nose is fragrant with distinct lemon zestiness. Tangy lemon flavours continue in the mouth along with a hint of rose water. Will serve very well with entrée courses.
Tahbilk Marsanne 2008 – $17 ***
Nagambie Lakes, Victoria. The invitingly perfumed nose reminded me somehow of apricot Danish with a touch of clotted cream on the side. The palate, in contrast, is elegant and dry with a touch of honey and a finish of lemon zest. These Tahbilk whites cellar very well – worth putting some aside to try in a few years time.

Settlers Rise Verdelho 2008 – cellar door / mail order $21.50 ***
The fruit comes from Queensland’s South Burnett and Granite Belt regions. Aromatic nose shows definite tropical fruit salad. Generous flavours fill the mouth with youthful ripe grapy flavours. Overall a softish, slightly off-dry style with enough punch to accompany starter courses.
Peter Lehmann Barossa Semillon 2006 – $13.50 ***$
A typically fine white from South Australia. The nose is a mix of lime and lemongrass, the palate dry, crisp and citrus tangy. Top aperitif style.
Terra Felix Shiraz Viognier 2007 – $16.50 ***
Spicy nose of plums and vanilla. Ripe dark berries fill the mouth along with upfront tannins and forward acidity. Dry to the finish. The assertiveness of this red suits it to substantial main course tucker.
Moss Wood Amy’s 2007 – $37 ***
Cabernet, petit verdot, malbec blend Dusty blackcurrant and pencil shavings nose. Medium-weighted and beautifully balanced in the mouth, showing medium tannic astringency, spiciness and a hint of dark chocolate.
d’Arenberg The Ironstone Pressings 2006 – $65 ****
A grenache, shiraz and mourvèdre blend. Pungent aromatics of well-ripened berries leap out of the glass to greet your nose. In the mouth the wine is solid and chewy and packed with extravagant and intense sweet fruit flavours. Not so much a glass of wine but a dinner course in its own right.
BlackJack Major’s Line Shiraz 2006 – $25 ***
The nose shows blackberries and a coconutty vanillin edge from American oak. The palate is full with a certain earthiness and is rich like a summer pudding. Tannins are softish and the wine finishes with noticeable alcoholic (14.5%) warmth.
Rating system
Five stars ***** – outstanding
**** – classy
*** – first-rate
** – good stuff
* – commercial
A $ denotes excellent value for money. Prices in Australian dollars.