by Martin Field
Glenmorangie The Original Single Malt Scotch – up to $70 ****
Ten years old, according to the label, and matured in ‘Bourbon oak casks’. And you can detect the oaky vanilla as you first inhale this distinctive Scotch. There is also a faint aroma of smokiness and a hint of lemon. The palate is light and velvet in texture and you’d swear there was honey in there somewhere, along with top notes of lime and lemon. Drink with just a splash of water and leave the ice and mixers for the tourists. Classy stuff indeed.
Appleton Estate Reserve Jamaica Rum – up to $55 ****
‘Aged 8 years.’ Lifted aromatics of Demerara sugar and island spices. Sweet and mellow in the mouth it flows down the throat like molten golden syrup. Definitely a sippin’ rum, drink it from a goldfish bowl as you would a Cognac or malt scotch. I wouldn’t spoil it with mixers; maybe ice or a few drops of water to enhance the esters.
Tulloch Hunter River White 2008 – up to $22 **
A blend of chardonnay, semillon and verdelho from the Hunter. Tropical fruity nose leads to a well-weighted palate, replete with zesty and refreshing elements of passionfruit and pineapple.
Plantagenet Great Southern Riesling 2008 – up to $22 ***
This wine’s bouquet of sweetness and limes reminded me of a wedge of Key Lime Pie I once savoured. Its palate is light, dry and delicate showing some of that lime tartness along with Granny Smith apples. The finish shows a zingy acidity.
Pfeiffer The Carson Gewürztraminer 2008 – $16.50 **$
King Valley, Victoria. Lime blossoms and roses dominate the bouquet. The palate is smooth and softish with some grapey sweetness. Try with entrée dishes.
Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2008 – up to $28 ***
Margaret River. Western Australia. The nose shows white flowers, an edge of lime juice and a hint of toasted oak. On the palate we find kiwi fruit, blackcurrant leaf, hay and lime zest. The finish is distinctly crisp and dry. Fine aperitif style.

Interlude: Alcoholic Red Rant
There’s a lot of high alcohol (14.5% plus) reds going round. I’m not so fond of them and I deduct points accordingly. Why? Because the first thing that hits you is a spirity blast in the nostrils, followed by a too warm palate and a hot alcoholic finish. The high alcohol also adds an illusory and unneeded sweetness to the taste – leaving elegance by the wayside.
In addition, when you’re sharing a bottle containing around nine standard drinks between four people it’s enough to put each of them very quickly into drink driving territory. When I want serious alcohol, I look for it in fortified wines or the spirit bottle – not in table wine.
Fox Creek JSM Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc 2006 – up to $22 ***
McLaren Vale, South Australia. Aromas of fruits of the forest and oak smokiness. Robust style shows a mix of blackberry conserve, oak vanillin and savoury aspects. Main course fare.
Blue Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 – up to $18 **
Avoca, Victoria. Blueberries, liquorice allsorts and pungent spirit (14.5%) on the nose. A solid wine showing earthy characters and almost porty blackcurrant and blackberry essences on the palate. These lead to a warm sweetish finish.
Hardy’s Oomoo Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre 2006 – expect to pay $14 to $15 **
McLaren Vale, South Australia. Spicy plummy nose. Palate is soft and full showing typical McLaren Vale choc/mocha infrastructure. Tannic astringency is sufficient without being assertive.
Brand’s Laira Shiraz 2005 – seen for $19 **
Coonawarra, South Australia. First thing I notice is there’s plenty of alcohol (15%) in this one. Next are blueberries and blackcurrants on the nose. The ripe black fruit theme continues on the palate with some intensity, leading to a warm, almost porty finish.
Rating system
Five stars ***** – outstanding
**** – classy
*** – first-rate
** – good stuff
* – commercial
A $ denotes excellent value for money.
Prices in Australian dollars