Tag Archives: Wine

Barcelona: Mon Vínic – restaurant, wine bar and wine library

On Wednesday evening February 18 I met Joan Gómez Pallarès to discover this incredible laboratory of wine and taste sensations, certainly unique in this world, called Mon Vínic (c / Diputació 249 Barcelona – Eixample, +34-932726187) – in Catalan, “The World of Wine”. Surprisingly not very well known, despite the level of ambition of the project and the huge investment required, it is a sensational place for wine lovers, made magical by:
• its rich collection of wines, thousands of bottles from all over the world, including some very old Malaga bottles reaching back to 1795, all available for tasting or meals at prices barely above what you pay for them at a wine merchant’s, even those that have rested in the cellar for a few years (aging is free!).
• its incredible architecture all in wood, concrete and stainless steel signed Alfons Tost,
• the documentation center, a library of books and magazines about wine from around the world, with several terminals to connect to the internet or the place’s wine database.
• the extraordinary competence and kindness of its sommeliers under the leadership of César Cánovas and Isabelle Brunet,
• the creativity strongly rooted in terroir and tradition of chef Sergi De Meià, whose dishes may be enjoyed in the “culinary space”, where some forty guests can be seated at two long white tables to enjoy their meal, with wines selected for this incredible cellar by means of touch screens on tablet PCs that provide access to the cellar’s database, including photos of the labels, information on the winery, etc..
• the selection of wines by the glass or half-glass: every day fifty labels are available in the restaurant or at the wine bar for ridiculously low prices.
• the class or conference room, used as a tasting workshop space
• the wine bar, a relaxing place for tasting wine
César Cánovas in the wine library

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Barcelona: Rosal34 restaurant

Tuesday evening 17 February 2009 is the second gastronomic stop of my stay in Barcelona. Rosal34 (c/ del Roser 34, Barcelona – Poble Sec, +34-933249046) is the contemporary and refined tapas restaurant of Oscar Adelantado and chef Josep Nicolau. The restaurant is closed Sunday, Monday noon and holidays.
Sitting in this beautiful modern room, we start with a series of three tapas to share:
Tàrtar de tonyina amb soja, mostassa Antigua, ous de salmó i fulls verds – a tuna tartare with soy, mustard and salmon caviar, spicy and tasty
Mozzarella i tomàquet sec italià – mozzarella and sundried tomatoes, fairly simple and lightweight
Cecina de Lleó amb formatge Idiazàbal – dried smoked beef from the hind quarters, a delicacy from the province of León, beautiful dark red thin slices served with basque Idiazábal ewe’s cheese, which I find similar to Pecorino di Pienza.
Oscar and Eva at Rosal34

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Barcelona: Gresca Restaurant

Last week I was back in the Catalan capital for the annual Mobile World Congress. The evenings become an opportunity for magic culinary discoveries in this city so rich in food culture. Once again I am guided by the advice of my friend Joan Gómez Pallarès, linguist and author of the blog De Vinis and connoisseur of all things good in Catalonia (and elsewhere…) .
It is not easy to find a table on Monday evenings in Barcelona, but on Monday 16 February 2009 I found a table at Gresca (c/ Provença 230, Barcelona – Eixample, +34-934516193). The minimalist website does not mention opening days, but it seems that the place closes on Saturday noon and Sunday. The chef Rafael Peña presents a very interesting combination of traditional and contemporary cuisine, focused on the accuracy of the cooking and presentation rather than on molecular techniques … The beauty of the dishes is impressive, especially entries like “Anec fumaÅ£ amb llagostins “, a lobster wrapped in thin slices of smoked duck in order to imitate the shell of the crustacean, delicious and well presented. Another is the “Carpaccio de Pop amb butifarra negra “, a mosaic of white slices of octopus on a background of black pudding with a frame of herbs. For the photos I “borrowed” some images from the excellent photo-blog Encatadisimo because my Blackberry decided to empty its batteries for the day…
Carpaccio de Pop amb butifarra negra

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A day at a fromagerie

by Martin Field
Perhaps the most simple and enjoyable food and wine match is that of wine (red especially) and cheese. French winemakers have it right when they say, ‘Sell with cheese, buy with apples.’
Like many wine and cheese lovers, I’d experienced aspects of the winemaking process but I’d never seen cheese production. Until, that is, friend and cheesemaker, Christian Nobel of Fromart Cheese, invited me to his cheese factory. Or, as we would say in Noosa, his fromagerie.
Before entering said fromagerie, I donned a dinky little white hat, a long white apron, and big white gum boots. I’d also had to walk through an antiseptic pool and had scrubbed my hands and arms to near surgical standards – the first of many scrubbings during the day.
Fifteen hundred litres of fresh creamy milk, from Jersey cows fed on lush verdant Mary Valley pastures, gushed into a stainless steel vat as I arrived. [Ed: enough with the pastoral imagery already.]

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Noosa Dining – off Hastings Street

by Martin Field
Noosa is one of Australia’s premier tourist destinations and most Noosa visitors we know stay at condos in or near the famous Hastings Street strip. They tend to dine at nearby upmarket restaurants but being unfamiliar with the greater Noosa region, will often ask me where they can eat out in surrounding areas.
Here are my Top Ten recommendations – in no particular order of merit.
At Sunshine Beach you’ll enjoy Alegria – their Spanish oriented tapas are excellent and the staffers are friendly. The stylish Wasabi serves modern Japanese and is one of the highest rated restaurants in Queensland – top service and presentation. Don’t miss the Sunshine Beach Surf Living Club – go for a surf then have a decent feed on the club’s balcony overlooking the ocean – you might even see whales. Beer and wine prices are very reasonable.

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Caseus Award Report

by Martin Field
Australian Cheesewhiz Richard Thomas told me of his recent visit to France as a participant in the International Caseus Award competition.
‘Hi Martin, Amazing time in France. Found THE food street of Paris, Rue Mouffetard, with an M. Androuet Fromagerie plus two others. Ninety per cent of the cheese was ‘lait cru’ so it’s still the cheese at the top end, that’s for sure. So I was charging around like a Mad Cambodian Duck Strangler eating all the cheese I could lay my teeth on. Plus, the shops were awash with all kinds of foie gras, of truffled items (like an Italian salami with tartufo), of ready meals, of apple pies, etc. All amazing.
‘We took off to Getaria, a little Basque fishing town just west of San Sebastian, a place I started visiting in the early ‘70s, hasn’t changed, great restaurants, grilled fish, crab and foie gras etc. Fabulous.

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Star drinking

by Martin Field
Veuve Clicquot Rosé Brut NV – seen for $78 – ****
Reims, France. A classic blend of pinot noir, pinot meunier, and chardonnay along with a percentage of red wine to give its delicate salmon-flesh colour. The nose shows complex aromas of strawberry shortcake and a hint of Turkish Delight. In the mouth, we find more flavours of strawberry along with fresh brioche and a refreshing touch of acidity at the finish.
Tyrrell’s Pinot Noir Chardonnay Brut 2005 – up to $27 – ***
Hunter Valley, New South Wales. This wine had two years on yeast lees before disgorgement. Pale lemon in colour. Nose of sweet biscuit and citrus blossom. The palate is dry and full with a pleasant beady tingle, and a tangy finish reminiscent of a squeeze of lemon over a wedge of Granny Smith apple pie.
Angove Butterfly Ridge Riesling Traminer 2008 – up to $7 – **
Generous tropical fruit aromatics. The palate in this quaffable white is soft, stone-fruity and off dry. Good value for a drink any time style.

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Topaque? Apera?

by Martin Field
I read Jeni Port’s story – that nearly a million bucks has been spent to come up with a couple of replacement names for Oz “sherry” and Oz “tokay” styles. The new approved names are respectively, “apera” and topaque”! How sophisticated.
A million bucks! I nearly choked as I poured a glass of dry apera down my aperture.

Wine books for Christmas gifts

by Martin Field
Perfumes: The Guide – * * * * * acid spicy $45
Wine guides there are in plenty but apparently this is the first critical guide for perfume. Perfumes: The Guide lists some 1500 fragrances and rates them with a five star system. (See (pdf) examples here.)
I used to work in the perfume biz and early on realised that perfume shares many elements with wine and its evaluation. Wine lovers will recognise many of the terms used in this book’s fragrance descriptions. You’ll find volatility, fruits and spices, citrus, lactones and aldehydes, acetones and vanillins and all.
You can almost smell the scents of expensive fashion houses wafting off the pages. Well in my copy you can. I went to a perfume store and asked for a few perfumed cards, which I took home and sniffed as I read the relevant descriptions and then used them as bookmarks. If ever a book needed a scratch and sniff capsule on every page this is it.
Co-authors Turin (AKA the Emperor of Scent) and Sanchez write beautifully. Their expert critiques are at times incisive, hilarious, lavish and scathing. Brilliant!
Tania Sanchez and Luca Turin. Hardback. Published by Profile Books. Distributed in Australia by Allen and Unwin

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Star drinking

by Martin Field
Penfolds Koonunga Hill Autumn Riesling 2008 – $18 and around $35 on premise ****
From the Barossa Valley comes this pale-hued wine showing greenish edges. The nose is fragrant with distinct lemon zestiness. Tangy lemon flavours continue in the mouth along with a hint of rose water. Will serve very well with entrée courses.
Tahbilk Marsanne 2008 – $17 ***
Nagambie Lakes, Victoria. The invitingly perfumed nose reminded me somehow of apricot Danish with a touch of clotted cream on the side. The palate, in contrast, is elegant and dry with a touch of honey and a finish of lemon zest. These Tahbilk whites cellar very well – worth putting some aside to try in a few years time.

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